The SW Summary: On Europe’s ‘dismal’ 2024 harvest, support for indigenous growers, progress in standards benchmarking, and more

Europe’s 2024 harvest falls 10% below five-year average

Meininger’s reports on Europe’s ‘dismal’ 2024 harvest. According to a recent press release from European agricultural lobbying organisation Copa-Cogeca, the estimated wine and must production from the 2024 harvest totals around 144m hl. This is 3% lower compared to last year and 10% below the five-year average.

Production leaders Italy and Spain saw volume increases year-on-year, but France, Germany and Portugal experienced “significant declines.” Copa and Cogeca attribute the production declines to challenging and unpredictable weather patterns. France and Germany incurred notable losses from frost, heavy rains and disease.

Climate challenges aren’t the only concern for producers. Higher production expenses stemming from inflation and increased supply chain costs are also adding pressure. “This year’s production figures simply reflect the prevailing market trends. The European wine market is navigating a challenging and complex phase, marked by high production costs and shifting international dynamics. However, I remain optimistic about the resilience and entrepreneurial spirit of our farmers,” notes Luca Rigotti, Chair of Copa-Cogeca’s Wine Working Group. Read the article here.

Say hello to hybrids

Jancis Robinson begins a recent article by pointing out that wine drinkers are going to have to learn the names of many new wine grapes. Hybrid wines are on the rise as an increasing number of growers embrace disease and drought-resistant vine varieties. With additions such as Sauvignon Nepis, Selenor, Floréal, Cabernet Cortis, and Pinot Kors, the dictionary of wine grapes continues to expand.  

Hybrid wines aren’t new. Robinson notes how “[grape breeders] have been experimenting with crossing (same species) and hybridising (different species) vines for at least a couple of centuries, notably in North America.”  The recent growth in hybrid wines has largely been driven by the challenges posed by climate change. Faced with shifting temperatures, erratic weather patterns, and the spread of pests and diseases, disease-resistant and resilient hybrids offer growers a solution. 

Hybrids are not only a crucial tool for climate adaptation in traditional wine-growing regions. As the world gets warmer, cooler parts of northern Europe are emerging as potential wine regions. Hybrid varieties play a key role in this expansion, as they can survive the harsh winters and bouts of extreme frost typical to these climates. 

Historically, hybrids don’t have a great reputation, says Robinson. With hybrid production typically having been focused on quantity over quality, hybrid was a “dirty word associated with the sort of thin, cheap plonk drunk (in quantity) by the poor in the twentieth century.” Whilst this general perception is changing, questions remain around consumer acceptance.

A name carries significant weight, especially when trying something new. Robinson illustrates this point effectively by comparing French names (Vidoc, Coliris, Lilaro) and Italian names (Cabernet Cortis, Pinot Kors and Sauvignon Nepis). The Italian names that refer to the established vinifera variety that was hybridised “will surely be an easier sell to a tradition-bound wine-drinking public than the French names, many of which sound more suitable for a pharmacy than a wine shop.” Read the full article here.

VSPT Wine Group extends support for Mapuche families

In the drinks business Michael Huband highlights VSPT Wine Group’s initiative to support indigenous Mapuche communities in Malleco in Chile’s Araucanía Region. Since 2015, the wine group has worked closely with local growers to produce Tayu 1865, Chile’s first Pinot Noir made by the Mapuche community. The Chilean Economic Development and Production Corporation (Cofro) has recently confirmed a grant to support the project for another three years.

VSPT and Corfo’s co-financing will help the 11 Mapuche families that grow the Pinot Noir grapes to move to a sustainable supply model, Huband reports. VSPT will also provide technical support and financial tools to support both viticultural and financial sustainability. Carolina Gotuzzo, VSPT Wine Group corporate affairs and sustainability director, shares how “the training and technical support aims to empower producers in Malleco, transforming them into independent entrepreneurs with strengthened management skills.”

The program is well-aligned with the wine group’s new sustainability model, which emphasises engagement with local communities. Read more here.

SWR makes progress with standards benchmarking

In a recent article for Harpers, Jo Gilbert reports on the progress of the Sustainable Wine Roundtable’s (SWR) Global Reference Framework (GRF) initiative. Launched last year, the GRF is the first global statement of what a credible journey towards sustainability looks like. It is a benchmarking scheme that assesses existing sustainability certifications against a single set of criteria, whilst allowing for standards to be tailored to local and regional needs. The initial benchmarking pilot phase of implementing the GRF has now been completed. 

The SWR evaluated seven certifications using the GRF and a scoring matrix. Each certification is given a score, ranking, and comprehensive analysis of its strengths and areas for improvement across a number of environmental and social categories. These include areas such as vineyard management, soil health, biodiversity, chemical inputs, waste management, climate change adaptation, regenerative agriculture, employee conditions, community relationships, and more. The certifications assessed in the benchmarking pilot include Equalitas (Italy), Fair’N Green (Germany), Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, Sustainable Winegrowing Australia, California Certified Sustainable Winegrowing, WIETA (South Africa) and IPW (South Africa). 

There is a demonstrated need for such a framework. With more than 40 sustainability standards in the wine industry, how can stakeholders understand how they stack up against each other? The annual benchmarking process enables transparent comparison of global sustainability standards, providing clarity about which standards demonstrate that the wines certified to them are on a credible journey to sustainability.

The GRF will continuously be updated and refined to keep up with the evolving landscape of sustainability in the wine sector.

You can read Gilbert’s article here and listen to the SWR Webinar: The Role of Sustainability Standards in Wine here.