The SW Summary: On terroir’s existential crisis, dogs and vines, regenerative vineyard trials, and more
Ellis Wines drives sustainability in wine distribution with HVO fuelled fleet
London-based Ellis Wines has become the first wine merchant in the UK to power its fleet with Hydrotreated Vegetable Oil (HVO) fuels. The family-owned business now powers 70% of its fleet with HVO supplied by Crown Oil. In addition to offering improved engine performance and a longer shelf life, HVO provides a range of environmental benefits, marking a significant step in the merchant’s sustainability commitments.
Made from 100% recycled vegetable oils, the renewable diesel fuel can reduce CO2 emissions by up to 90% compared to fossil diesel. HVO also produces significantly lower emissions of nitrogen oxide, harmful particulate matter, and carbon monoxide. “By investing in cleaner HVO fuels for our delivery fleet, we are not only taking a big step in our journey towards becoming a Certified B-Corporation, but we are leading by example in the wine distribution industry that sustainable practices and efficient operations, as well as exceptional customer service, can all go hand-in-hand,” says James Ellis, director at Ellis Wines.
The majority of the remaining fleet is made up of electric vans powered by 100% renewable energy. Only 10% still require diesel due to being based at a second bonded warehouse in Exeter, but the company plans to transition to more sustainable fuels in the future. Read the full press release here.
As part of the SWR’s work in packaging and logistics, we’re currently developing the SWR Bottle Miles Calculator. This will be an actionable, evidence-based tool to help members map the carbon emissions of wine bottles across their entire lifecycle. By offering detailed insights into key stages—such as raw material extraction, manufacturing, transportation, and disposal—this tool will empower companies to make informed decisions to reduce their packaging and logistics footprint. If you’re interested in learning more or getting involved, please contact info@swroundtable.org.
Robert Hall Winery makes a strong case for regenerative viticulture
“When you walk into the vineyard now, it’s like this biodiversity nightclub of energy and insects and life all around you,” says Robert Hall General Manager Caine Thompson in Grape & Wine Magazine. He’s describing the regenerative organic block from the winery’s three-year comparative study on regenerative organic versus conventional vineyard management. The benefits of regenerative organic were evident from as early as year one. Now, four years later, the ongoing study’s findings continue to demonstrate notable differences in yields, water retention, soil carbon, soil respiration, and wine quality.
As Pam Strayer reports, the Robert Hall study is not your typical winery trial reliant on subjective and qualitative assessments. Instead, the Paso Robles-based study involves a “side-by-side comparison and measurement” across 48 acres of cabernet sauvignon vines. Of these, 43 acres are under regenerative organic management and 5 acres serve as a conventional control. When setting up the trial, the team analysed satellite images and soil maps to ensure the plots were “like for like literally side by side, [with] the same soil type and the same [vine] clone,” says Thompson.
The results speak for themselves. Three out of four years saw the regenerative organic vineyard produce a higher yield compared to the conventional control, largely due to the former’s “more resilient canopy that has helped protect the fruit.” In 2023 Robert Hall employed Agrology Technology to help with data collection and analysis, which has since shown the regenerative block to have higher levels of water retention, microbial activity, soil health, and carbon sequestration than the control.
But what about costs and wine quality? Thompson strongly believes regenerative organic farming can be profitable for all. Farming costs in the regenerative organic block only increased 10% annually on average, all the whilst delivering higher yields and dramatic improvements in wine quality. Read the full article here.
Meet your canine colleagues
In Decanter Chris Mercer highlights the latest research suggesting that specially trained dogs could help detect vine diseases and pests. In a recent study led by Cornell University researchers, trained dogs searched for eggs of the invasive spotted lanternfly in nearby forests next to vineyards in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. The dogs found 3.4 times more egg masses in the forests than their human counterparts. Although humans found more eggs in the vineyards themselves (likely due to their ability to systematically search the vines row-by-row), the findings could be important in helping prevent the spread of the invasive species.
It’s not just the spotted lanternfly. Separate studies have shown dogs to be able to detect powdery mildew, vine mealybugs, leafroll 3 virus, and more. Read the full article here.
Terroir’s existential crisis
Writing for the Financial Times, Susannah Savage highlights how a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris now serves a Danish wine from Stokkebye on its wine list. Similar to many other northern wineries that began as mere hobbies over a decade ago, Stokkebye is now emerging “as a serious [contender]” in the wine world. It’s no new news that the world’s climate map is being redrawn. Viticulture is expanding into regions previously deemed too cool and traditional regions are struggling with higher temperatures and drought. What does this all mean for the future of wine?
Luckily, there is a future of wine. Elizabeth Wolkovich, a climate and phenology expert quoted in Savage’s article, explains how she feels “very confident that this is not a crop that’s facing extinction. There’s no giant cliff coming for wine grapes…but there are big changes coming.”
Climate change is causing faster ripening and therefore earlier harvests, often to the detriment of the flavour and balance of grapes. Extreme weather events such as prolonged drought, floods, and wildfires (see the devastating California wildfires) are causing irreversible damage to both vines, livelihoods, and lives.
Whilst growers around the world are integrating cover crops, planting at higher altitudes, and implementing water management strategies, many also have their eyes on new resistant varieties. From experimenting with hybrids to reviving old native varieties, these “most effective adaptations are also the most controversial”, notes Savage.
Climate adaptation is necessary for survival, but many traditional regions are constrained by appellation rules with strict criteria for production. Many worry that changes will “threaten the quality of wines from regions such as Burgundy, risking consumer trust and loyalty built over centuries.” It seems that terroir is facing an existential crisis: If you do adapt, you might have a different product. Fail to adapt and you might not have one at all. Read the full article here.