The SW Summary: On modern slavery in Champagne, smoke taint research, Europe’s mounting mildew problem, and more

Human trafficking in Champagne

In Wine-Searcher Barnaby Eales reports on modern slavery in Champagne. Throughout the harvest French authorities have closed a number of grape picker accommodations due to inhumane, unsafe and unhealthy conditions. A French public prosecutor in Châlons-en-Champagne announced the launch of two human trafficking investigations, following a recent case involving over 50 African pickers in Nesle-Le-Repons who were “malnourished, unpaid and effectively treated like slaves.” Prosecutor Céline Fassey told French reporters that “several companies” are under investigation for human trafficking, but did not name the recruitment agencies or contractors.

As around 120,000 grape pickers are needed during the harvest, Champagne houses often rely on external agencies to hire workers. These subcontracted agencies can outsource recruitment to other companies, thereby creating a murky chain of sub-contraction. Sabine Duménil, general secretary of the Marne branch French CGT union, which monitors grape picker conditions in Champagne, notes how this “lack of control over the whole chain…allows modern slavery and human trafficking to exist.”

In response to the investigations, the Comité de Champagne (CIVC) issued a statement vowing to double down on efforts to prevent human trafficking, but did not outline any specific measures.

Read the full article here. 

Increased funding for smoke taint research

Writing for the drinks business, L.M. Archer shares how Jackson Family Wines (JFW) is funding crucial research into smoke taint. Smoke taint is hugely damaging to the wine industry. According to a study by Downey Brand, LLP, in 2020 California lost US$601 million in unharvested wine grapes due to smoke.

Dr. Tom Collins, a professor at Washington State University, is one of the leading researchers in grape smoke taint. Dr. Collins has worked with JFW over the past few years on various topics, including how smoke taint impacts grape and wine quality. To further this area of research, JFW has donated US$300,000 “to create the Jackson Family Wines Endowed Professorship at Washington State University’s (WSU) Department of Viticulture & Enology (V&E).”

Christopher Jackson of JFW shares how they have “long admired Dr. Tom Collins, and his commitment to research that brings more innovation to viticulture and winemaking.” They hope that the research “will not only benefit the local Washington winemaking community, but the global wine industry as well.” Read more here.

Wine Society makes strides in sustainability

In Harpers Andrew Catchpole reports on the Wine Society’s newly announced sustainability initiatives, including a producer-focused insetting fund from 2024 and uptake in lighter weight glass across its portfolio. The co-operative wine club’s Nature and Climate Fund’ will invest in regenerative viticultural projects, with a focus on carbon sequestration and biodiversity. Pierre Mansour, head of buying at the Society, stresses that healthy soils are “one of the best possibilities for nature-based carbon reduction given it has the potential to hold one-third of all the carbon emitted across the globe.”

The Society has already successfully reduced 40% of its still wine range bottles to a weight under 420g and now aims to grow this 100% by the 2027 vintage. Pierre Mansour, head of buying at the Society, shares how following an investment in some research with the Sustainable Wine Roundtable, they “found that there is no practical reason why all still wines shouldn’t be below 420g over the next few years. The Society’s announcement comes ahead of the industry-wide announcement on light-weighting glass, which the Sustainable Wine Roundtable will launch on 10th October.

The Society also plans to move some of its own label range to alternative packaging formats such as bag-in-box and cans. This move in combination with light-weighting is estimated to drive a 60% reduction in overall packaging emissions by 2032. Read the full article here.

If you want to join the Sustainable Wine Roundtable’s official launch of the ‘SWR Bottle Weight Accord’ on 10th October (16.00 GMT), you can register through this link.

Europe’s mounting mildew problem

How will grape growers remember 2023? For many, the answer will be “Mildew Strikes Back,” says James Lawrence in Wine-Searcher. Throughout the year Europe has endured a series of natural disasters, from deadly heat waves to downpours and floods. Lawrence reports on the impact of excess rainfall in vineyards across Europe. Mildew has caused severe damage across Austria, Croatia, France, Italy, Slovenia and Georgia, with many wineries “forecasting significantly lower yields in 2023.”

In Bordeaux the “combination of heat and heavy rain led to massive outbreaks of fungal diseases and open season for itinerant spores.” Around 90 percent of vineyards were affected by mildew, with many describing the mildew attacks as “the worst in a long time.” This sentiment is echoed in Greece and Italy, especially Sicily.

Thanks to their arid climates, vineyards across the Mediterranean have often been “celebrated as prime real estate for organic and biodynamic viticulture.” However, when faced with massive yield losses and economic risk, the commitment to organic practices becomes more difficult. In contemplating the future of organics in an increasingly climate volatile Europe, Lawrence duly notes that “for all our sakes, let’s hope vintage 2023 is one-off.”